so you think it's self explaintory because there are no instructions?? you think it's easy as bolting on with no mods??? you think there so cheap there not worth buying???
your wrong on all accounts. so iam gonna tell you the proper way to prep a (Freddy) intake mani for your trusty rb25det.
this is going a s13.
so basically all these copies are made from the originall greddy model. so some are better than others. i opted for this particualr unit.
Bolt on R32 r33 R34 GT s GTS RB25DET Cast Intake Manifold High Flow Fuel Rail | eBay
there are also polished models, i didn't need that much flash so i got this one.
one of the 1st things you want to do is seal the water neck, either welding or rtv.
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not securing the water neck will lead to what happend above. coolant/water will seap out so you have to seal this bad boy.
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2nd thing is file the flang down for any inperfections. don't take off too much as a little bit will do it. you need to hold the file and use mostly your palm in a forward and backward motion to smooth the flange.
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i learned this the hard way after i installed the mani before doing this or my next preperation and water leaked out the bottom of the mani.
my next prep item is the gasket prep.
i brought a brand new, thicker intake mani gasket from cometic.
Nissan 14035 75T01 Intake Manifold Gasket RB25DET RB25DE R32 r33 JDM New | eBay
like i said, before ina rush to slap this on i got a leak when the car ran, so now iam going to do this the 'right way'
so after i smooth out the intake mani flange. i then put some nissan rtv around the coolant galleys on both sides of the intake gasket, just for piece of mind.
1st remove the mani. i installed this when it was outside of the car. it appears it's a cluster to get off. but with ratchet extensions it's really not that bad.
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these are the coolant galleys
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heres what the coolant/air lines looks like now with the ffim. it took me a small fortune of hoses to cut and make the right ones fit. get a bronze connector t as the plastic ones can't handle the coolant heat.
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and while you are downthere, if you havent there is a water neck nipple you won't be needing anymore.
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slide the hose over and violia!!
now time for gasket prep
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i also put some on the other side so nothing will ever leak again.
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so next up and the main reason why people have problems with these are the ubber cheap bolts!! they aren't strong enough. and with the right tourqe they will break, and you will be butt-f***ed. so i took the bolts that came with the mani, went to local ace hardware, and hot harder bolts.
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also while you have the manifold off smooth this part over with a die grinder. so you can get a socket clearance to slide over the bolt .
This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. Report this image
the tq spec are 10-12ft lbs iirc. you won't need a tq wrench for these and do it in a sequence starting with the 2 center bolts, then work your way outward.
install the mani and boom there you go.
your wrong on all accounts. so iam gonna tell you the proper way to prep a (Freddy) intake mani for your trusty rb25det.
this is going a s13.
so basically all these copies are made from the originall greddy model. so some are better than others. i opted for this particualr unit.
Bolt on R32 r33 R34 GT s GTS RB25DET Cast Intake Manifold High Flow Fuel Rail | eBay
there are also polished models, i didn't need that much flash so i got this one.
one of the 1st things you want to do is seal the water neck, either welding or rtv.
This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. Report this image
not securing the water neck will lead to what happend above. coolant/water will seap out so you have to seal this bad boy.
This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. Report this image
2nd thing is file the flang down for any inperfections. don't take off too much as a little bit will do it. you need to hold the file and use mostly your palm in a forward and backward motion to smooth the flange.
This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. Report this image
i learned this the hard way after i installed the mani before doing this or my next preperation and water leaked out the bottom of the mani.
my next prep item is the gasket prep.
i brought a brand new, thicker intake mani gasket from cometic.
Nissan 14035 75T01 Intake Manifold Gasket RB25DET RB25DE R32 r33 JDM New | eBay
like i said, before ina rush to slap this on i got a leak when the car ran, so now iam going to do this the 'right way'
so after i smooth out the intake mani flange. i then put some nissan rtv around the coolant galleys on both sides of the intake gasket, just for piece of mind.
1st remove the mani. i installed this when it was outside of the car. it appears it's a cluster to get off. but with ratchet extensions it's really not that bad.
This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. Report this image
these are the coolant galleys
This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. Report this image
heres what the coolant/air lines looks like now with the ffim. it took me a small fortune of hoses to cut and make the right ones fit. get a bronze connector t as the plastic ones can't handle the coolant heat.
This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. Report this image
and while you are downthere, if you havent there is a water neck nipple you won't be needing anymore.
This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. Report this image
slide the hose over and violia!!
now time for gasket prep
This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. Report this image
i also put some on the other side so nothing will ever leak again.
This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. Report this image
so next up and the main reason why people have problems with these are the ubber cheap bolts!! they aren't strong enough. and with the right tourqe they will break, and you will be butt-f***ed. so i took the bolts that came with the mani, went to local ace hardware, and hot harder bolts.
This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. Report this image
also while you have the manifold off smooth this part over with a die grinder. so you can get a socket clearance to slide over the bolt .
This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. Report this image
the tq spec are 10-12ft lbs iirc. you won't need a tq wrench for these and do it in a sequence starting with the 2 center bolts, then work your way outward.
install the mani and boom there you go.
A great addition to modified RB25DET engines, the GReddy ECR33 Intake Manifold Plenum relocates the throttle body for more ideal intercooler/charge air pipe routing. This intake plenum is designed to use the larger Q45 throttle body (not included) however additional weld-on parts can be purchased to use standard throttle body.
• Intake manifold install Day 6, Installation of GReddy Intake Manifold Remember this? My piece of cardboard with a diagram for the bolts? Well guess what? It wont be needed unless you plan on installing the stock intake manifold, otherwise for the GReddy RB25DET Intake Plenum, it comes with a whole set of bolts. Make sure the area you're working on is free of clutter. The metal intake gasket should be changed and no seal is needed.
If you don't have a new intake manifold gasket, carefully inspect it, mine was still good so I opted in using my old one. Here is the jumbled mess of bolts that come with the manifold. You can see from the photo that there are four different size of bolts. The four bolts that are the second shortest (two sizes from the right) will be used for the throttle body if you don't have the original throttle body bolts. You will need to use the two longer bolts and the shortest bolt for the intake plenum.
NOTE: I did this part out of order, but should be done first! Off of your old intake manifold, remove the water tube that lays on the bottom with a 12mm socket. Six bolts in plain view. Ms office 2007 converter to pdf. It's these guys if you're still confused. There is a 10mm bolt that acts like a bracket for the vacuum hose (for the air regulator) on the manifold.
I should be receiving my RB25DET within the next. RB25 vs RB26 intake. Like to convert the stock manifold over to the rb26dett style intake manifold. Dec 27, 2008 I have had pretty good luck finding parts for it. And I purchased greddy manifold from. If anyone has the install manual and. Greddy intake manifold RB25det. Sep 11, 2008 How to install greddy intake manifold RB25DET? Anyone got a tutorial or guide on how to do it?
You can remove that or just remove the hose. It would be easy to remove these 10mm bolts after you remove the whole assembly (with water tube) from the manifold. On the top portion of the stock intake manifold, you can remove these three 12mm bolts that house the IAA unit. Here it is removed from the stock manifold.
On the GReddy plenum you'll see the mounting location for the IAA valve (it's on the right silly). Just one of those pictures for you blind people. You should clean off the gasket that was on the IAA valve and make sure it looks something like this when you're done.
Greddy Intake Manifold Sr20det
Then lather up that famous RTV gasket maker. Remember the three 10mm bolts we used to take out the IAA valve, well these should be reused. I cleaned up the threads a little with a wire wheel, but do as you please here. A little blue thread locker wont hurt. These three bolts should be torqued to 8.4-11 N-m or 0.86-1.1 km-m Next is the beloved water tube.
![Sr20det greddy intake manifold Sr20det greddy intake manifold](https://cdn.sau.com.au/monthly_07_2012/post-96791-0-18985800-1343137181.jpg)
Try to clean out as much of the old gasket and rust (if present) on this part. A good brake cleaner should work. I dolled up the underside just a little too to make it look a little newer.
Rb25det Greddy Intake Manifold
You can see how cluttered it is underneath the intake manifold when it's installed. This is why I highly recommend you installing the accessories on the manifold before you install the manifold! More clutter. It was soo tight in there that I decided to remove the water hoses and the oil cooler. This allowed me to free up some room. Use the original 6 12mm bolts that held in the water tube to re-secure the tube.
Use the same gasket maker and torque all 6 bolts to 16-21 N-m or 1.6-2.1 kg-m. As you can see from this picture, I had no problem in torque for 5 bolts, but the one bolt that was closest to the camera on the far right (by the water pipe coming from the thermostat) I couldn't get my torque wrench in there for beans. So 5 out of 6 bolts were torqued and the 6th one I pray I get lucky. Next comes all the washers and bolts for the intake manifold. There are washers and each washer has two sides. One side should be shiny and smooth while the other is rough. The order of the bolt should be, hex bolt, the compression washer, then washer (smooth side facing the hex bolt) and rough side down towards the intake plenum).
A word to the wise, before you install, place the correct size bolts through the manifold to get an idea of where each bolt needs to go. Place thread locker on the bolts before if you want, but this stage is up to you, I highly recommend it. Place the manifold on the head, and hand tighten the nuts that go on the stock stud at each end of the manifold.
And the other side. Now the weird part, torque the 13mm hex bolts down in the correct order.The bolts should be torqued to 18-22 N-m or 1.8-2.2 kg-m.The nuts at the end should be torqued down to 11-13 N-m or 1.1-1.3 kg-m.
I'm just an ordinary man, working an ordinary job who just happen to own one of the greatest japanese car ever build. Although my car has remained stock for some time, there isn't a single day that i do not think about refurbishing it with better and newer parts. Unfortunately due to time and other commitments in life, i just don't have the neccesary funds for my car. Although this has put me off from modding my car, i've never ceased to read on manuals, rebuilds or other stories of people doing a maintenance on their car.
I believe, even if i do not have the money for a project, there is no harm in learning. So here, you'll find one of the most comprehensive tutorials on the RB engines ever tabulated on the internet. If you have a tutorial to share, please do not hesistate to drop me a comment.This site is still pretty new, but i will try to fill it up as much as possible.I reap no benefits in doing so, however if you would like to contribute to my non-existant project fund you're more than welcome to do so.